Venturing into Tunnel Creek

  Strange encounters in Tunnel Creek

Descending into the subterranean world of Tunnel Creek, the air temperature dropped dramatically – welcome relief from the Kimberley sun. Flicking my torch into life, I headed for the darkness, crossing sandy banks and wading through the shin-deep water. Shining the torch down, I could see freshwater prawns wiggling around my toes. Then the guide suddenly stopped, switched off his torch and pointed into the darkness across to our right. The hair on the back of my neck stood up as I saw two tiny red eyes looking back at us. Though crocodile sightings are rare here, the occasional freshwater fellow does find his way in. Now I know these crocodiles are far more docile and harmless than their estuarine cousins, but I was truly uncomfortable with such a shadowy encounter. Not surprisingly, the rest of our venture into Tunnel Creek passed quickly as we picked up pace and raced towards the daylight ahead.  After a refreshing swim in a crocodile-free waterhole, we retraced our steps through the darkness, eyes peeled for our snappy friend.

- Helen Craig travelled on Kimberley Wild’s 1 Day Windjana Gorge – Tunnel Creek Adventure

 

Jandamarra Country

  Into the heart of Jandamarra Country

Our guide’s dark leathery hands grabbed at the spinifex, plucking handfuls and making a bouquet with other dry shrubbery. Bundling it all together he placed it on a clear patch of earth and set fire to it. As smoke billowed from the green leaves, he quietly spoke a few words in his traditional language. Continuing to chant, he invited us to walk through the white smoke that was curling its way towards vast blue sky. Having passed through, we had been formally welcomed into ‘Bunuba Country’. The Indigenous Bunuba people are traditional owners of a spectacular part of the West Kimberley region in northwest Australia, including the well-known Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek. The Bunuba have roamed these rocky gorges and vast grassy plains for thousands of years. Our guide, Dillon, was born and raised here and now lives in the remote Biridu Community, where we are headed as guests for the evening. On the way, we pause to explore a rocky outcrop, known only to locals, where rock art thousands of years old can been seen by the lucky few who are taken there.  It is late afternoon as we approach Biridu. Our rough 4WD track heads across Pigeon Creek, named after the Bunuba warrior, Jandamarra, who the white settlers nicknamed ‘Pigeon’. Often considered to be the Indigenous Ned Kelly, Jandamarra frustrated authorities for years back in the 1890’s while fighting for the freedom of his people; he died a legend during a defiant last stand, at the entrance of the cave through which Tunnel Creek flows.

Emerging from the Pigeon Creek bed, we drive down a dirt airstrip, clouds of red dust billowing behind us, before arriving in the Community itself. Locals come out to welcome us with broad smiles and spirited kids fall about laughing. The sun descends, as we set up camp beneath the Coolibah trees on the banks of Pigeon Creek. Corellas squawk in the sky above as they head home for the evening, while the relative cool of the night brings relief from the day’s heat and stars fill the Kimberley sky. Our dinner cooks on the campfire, as Dillon entertains us with stories of his youth in the area, local Bunuba legends and adventures of the hero, Jandamarra.  

This country has largely been off limits to travellers and watching the campfire flicker, surrounded by tall grasslands, swollen boab trees and new friends, I feel privileged to be here. It is unfortunate that remote Indigenous communities have experienced such negative media attention in recent months – I realize that for me this has been an experience of a lifetime, sadly one few other Australians have embarked upon themselves.

- Gina Woods travelled on Kimberley Wild’s 3 Day West Kimberley Experience

 

Green Tree Ants

  Eating green tree ants at Windjana Gorge!

My latest adventure was into the West Kimberley of Australia, a beautiful medley of vast cattle stations, pristine gorge country and indigenous homelands. Travelling east from Broome, we left the fresh coastal air and entered a seemingly endless savannah of Australian pindan wattles, melaleuca, bloodwood and boab trees. Scattered throughout were dense anthills built tirelessly in red pindan soil. As the landscape passed by, my eyes were peeled for Kimberley cattle, wallabies and black kites soaring above. Smoke billowed In the distance as fires burn freely on cattle stations, an atmospheric dry season ritual that has endured for thousands of years to invigorate the environment, promoting fresh growth and renewed life. 

Reaching the red soil of the famous Gibb River Road, we left the tarmac behind and travel towards the picturesque Napier Range. Once a Devonian reef, the rocks that form these mountains are over 350 million years old, amongst the oldest on the planet. Turning into the Windjana Gorge National Park, dramatic cliffs formed a backdrop to the natural habitat. Walking towards the cliffs, a narrow cavern marked the entrance to the gorge itself. An outback oasis, this geological wonder stretches 3.5 kilometres into the escarpment. Rugged gorge walls towered 90 metres above us as freshwater crocodiles sunned themselves on the banks of the river. These prehistoric-looking creatures are relatively harmless and the brave can get quite close! Our guide showed us some local indigenous bushtucker, including green tree ants, which he offered as a refreshing treat. Hesitantly, I did as instructed and bit off the ant’s abdomen. The citrus flavour was surprising and though green tree ants would not usually be on my menu, and may never be again, it was an experience. Later that afternoon, as the sun began to descend over the Kimberley, we set up camp beneath the gorge walls that glowed a brilliant red. Currawongs squawked overhead as they made their way home for the night while I helped our guide prepare dinner over a flickering campfire. 

What a wonderful Aussie experience!

 - Serena Elmore travelled on Kimberley Wild’s 3 Day West Kimberley Experience